Square Meal Guide

At a time when many gastropubs are walking a tightrope between restaurant & pub, Lordship Lane’s Palmerston seems to have fallen onto the restaurant side of the dividing line. Drinkers are now relegated to a narrow strip of space running between the bar & the tables, atop which ‘reserved’ signs have become as integral a fixture in the settings as knives & forks. Boldly ambitious & appealing, the modern British menu might feature grilled quail with rocket, balsamic vinegar, olive oil & pomegranate as a starter or line-caught halibut with samphire & girolles as mains. None of this comes cheap, naturally, but quality is high & service slick. An exemplary wine list sets the seal on a truly satisfying experience.