Evening Standard Metro Life - 30th April 2004

Former Bibendum head chef, Jamie Younger, has gone down the gastropub route. It is how ambitious young chefs have a place of their own.

Younger's partner in East Dulwich is Paul Rigby, owner of the smart fish-and-chippy, The Sea Cow, nearby.

Most of the space in the sprawling premises is taken up with tables and chairs, signifying the emphasis on food, but the far room with a pretty mosaic-tiled floor and the handsome fireplace is almost a restaurant.

Staff are friendly and easy-going but there is nothing casual about the preparation of enticing dishes like Thai seabass and cashew nut salad with green mango; sauternes-marinated foie gras with onion confit; rump of Welsh lamb with fresh garlic; sweetbreads, peas and mint; caramel parfait with poached fig in port.

Happily prices for both food and wine make eating here regularly feasible.

Fay Maschler